Costume design involves the creation of clothing and accessories for the overall appearance of performers or characters. Whether it is an elaborate period dress or a well-worn t-shirt, quite a lot of thought goes into the overall look of each character. In this article, we’ll break down the process of costume design creation.
Costume Design Process
While ready-made costumes are always available, a costume design is essential because it helps you achieve the desired look. Although the design process may differ slightly depending on the genre of story, media or concept, there are baseline steps designers take when creating a new look. Before we delve into the steps involved, here is a table with information to help you understand more about this type of design.
| The Purpose of Costume Design | Where Are Costumes Used | Costume Types Used in Theatrical Design |
| Allows costume designers to give information on various characters and their relationships. | Cinema | Modern |
| Provides details on the style and tone of a show or play. | Theatre | Dance |
| Help the audience know about the place and time a show or play is set. | Musical performance | Fantastical |
| Play a role in the fullness of the artistic and visual world. | Cosplay | Historical |
Analysis
The first step in the costume design process is an analysis of the script, screenplay, choreography or musical composition. This allows the designer to define the characters or performers and get invaluable insight into who the subject is. Characters are not one-dimensional since their perspective and actions change as the story progresses. Keep in mind that their costumes have to reflect that growth and development.
Meeting With the Director
The next step involves the designer meeting with the director. It is worth noting that you may have to perform this step numerous times throughout the whole creative process. The designer will ask questions to ensure the costumes meet the performers’ or character’s needs and project leads. The designer and the director should agree on the themes for the show plus the message it will send to the audience.
Costume Research
The costume designer must understand the world the performer or character inhabits. This understanding helps establish the rules of the world, enabling a better comprehension of the characters. They will then research each character and use the costume to establish their personalities.
Sketch Out Ideas
With a functional understanding of the character and the suitable style, the designer can create preliminary drawings. They will begin with quick rough sketches to get a basic idea of the show and how it will look when put together. It will also allow them to see if they are maintaining the rules of the world in the show.
Next, the designer will create more detailed sketches and determine the specific character’s costumes and colours. This step needs more than a pencil sketch, as it may also entail the following:
- Fabric samples
- Colour palettes and swatches
- Collaborative sketching
After finishing the preliminary paintings and sketches, the designer can present them to the writers and director to ensure everyone is on the same page before moving forward. Not only should the sketches show how the final design will look, but they can also suggest conceptual changes. Doing this eliminates any surprises.
Costume Rendering Generation
Now that everyone is on board with the designer’s direction, they will create final sketches, which are known as rendering. Renderings are often painted with acrylic paints or watercolours. The designer will develop a rendering that shows several iterations of the costume worn by the character.
Rendering can include several people dressed in matching outfits or one character wearing different costumes. While incorporating colour and fabric swatches was optional in the previous phase, this is crucial in the costume rendering process; textures and hues breathe life into the look while showing how it will look in the story’s context.
Sample Costume Creation
After finalising the design, it is time to make a sample costume. The sample is created through patternmaking, where the designer will create a cloth or paper pattern. The fabric used to make the sample garment will be the same as the final product since this allows the designer to work out any fit or construction issues with the costume design. The designer may create his prototype to fit himself because fixing mistakes and making adjustments is a walk in the park.
Costume Construction
After the approval of the costume design, it is time for the sewing process. If the costume designer has proficiency in tailoring or sewing, they can do this by themselves. But the designer can take the sketches to a professional costume shop if they don’t have these skills. In this case, they will include illustrations and deliver verbal or written instructions to ensure the clothing is made according to their specifications.
If the shop requires more detailed directions on the construction of the costumes, they may ask the designer to draw up more sketches. For instance, the designer may draw complex designs they want to appear on clothes separately. If costumes are layered, the designer may show the bottom and the layers separately. Doing this ensures there are no incorrect visual interpretations of the intended look.
Attending the Costume Fittings
Once the garments are done, it is time for the actors to try them on to make sure they fit. Fittings ensure the stage clothes are tailored to the bodies of the actors and can comfortably accommodate specific movements or actions.
The designer will be present at these fittings to ensure the clothes move and behave how they want when the actors wear them. The designer may make necessary adjustments at this stage, depending on how the garments fit the actors and the actions they engage in during the performance.
For instance, swordplay or dancing needs flexible costumes, which can be achieved by enlarging them. Alternatively, stretch knits or any fabric that moves with ease can be used. Each actor might need several fittings for every costume.
Designer Examines the Finished Costumes While on Set
The costume designer will observe the garments in real-time, under the same set conditions as the final show, play, musical performance, or production will require. This stage allows the designer to see the clothes against the set and under lighting and decide if any parts need improving.
The designer often observes the costumes during the following events:
- Costume parade: This is a meeting where all the actors appear on stage in costume and under state lighting, allowing the costume designer to see how they look.
- Dress rehearsal: This is the final rehearsal before a show or opera is performed. All the cast members will wear their costumes, with the scenery and lights being used as they would during the performance.
Final Thoughts
Costumes are one of the tools directors use to tell a story in a play or show. There is an art to costume design creation and its creative process, which goes unnoticed by the public. This guide has highlighted the steps designers follow in costume design creation.